taxi came a bit early but I was ready. In the airport everything was
going smooth and soon I was on board (tiny chileans dont need much
space but I do ;o((( . ). Luckily it was just a short flight but
unluckily I did not see the vulcanos. I took the shuttle to the
busterminal to realize that the next bus will go to bariloche at 3pm
now it was 10:00 ;o(. At least I saw a traditional dance in the
terminal. Thought to myself well lets got to the center for some
coffee but I walked in vane as nothing had open on a sunday moring.
So I decided to go to the fishermen wharf where I was already 4 years

weather but at least most of the things in the Mercado Angelmo was
inside. Had a good view on sealions and also the folclore group was
dancing here, much nicer then in the busterminal amongst the fish
;o)… Had some Congrio soup (incredible, I’ll miss chile for the
seafood), and as an appetizer I got Ceviche from smoked salmon, this
nearly beat the palmheart ceviche, wow wow wow.

I am not able to make it to El Bolson and hoped to see the blood moon
in Bariloche, but first we have to go there. At the frontier there
was snow on the road (wintertime in spring, like in germany). Finally
we arrove around 9:30 pm at the terminal bariloche. Unluckily my
mobile dropped and I lost the info about the hostels. I went with the
bus as infront of the taxistand there where waiting 6 people and for
more than 15 minutes no taxi came. I went into the bus and there was
the argentinian problem again, no cash ;o( but luckily somebody paid
with his card the 6 pesos and I paid him in cash. The bus dropped me
off in the center and now where to go. Well, I tried a hotel but it
was full with spring breakers or s.th. Similar. The receptionist gave
me the key to the network but I couldnt get in (probably all ports
are occupied by the youngsters). So I asked him for Hostels and he
geve me some directions. But I found another hotel – Kings – and
he had a room for 500 ARS so I took that. In the room it was awfully
hot so I asked the guy how to lower – Open the window was the
response. Well, global heating …

fullmoon eclipse due to rain ;o(( .. Juan Carlso in Viña instead saw
it ;o(( should have stayed longer. I went to the bar area but due to
sunday night even the irish pub had closed. Well, I found a bar with
a bit live music stayed there for two cups of wine (i had not enough
ARS ;o( ..) and went to the hotel.

– 08.October

moring I went to town to change money and got 1 USD to 15.3 ARS
change. Picked the bus to El Bolson and then a Remise to Mallin
Ahogado CIDEP where Caro and Edu live. Received a very warm welcome.
As I am writing this with delay I do not refer for this with dates
and also the most important things.

day – I guess it was wednesday ;o) – we, Caro, Edu and I, went
with the horses to handover a horse to some old landowners in the
next valley. We left late as the weather didnt seem to be impressive
in the morning but… it was awesome in the afternoon. Caro decided
herself very late so she came with us w/o food. Her horse is called
‘poca plata’ as Edu bought it for little money, a very good horse.
The way was incredible through nearly untouched land and we had to
pay attention that no branch hits us or the horse doesnt pass a tree
to close – because of our knees. It was a 3 hrs ride and was
espectacular. Actually only 2hrs but I needed 1hr to take my pics.
Down there only fernando was there as one (all the hermanos –
brothers and sisters live there) of the hermanos was in the hospital,
so Edu was a bit disappointed as he told us with the both oldies its
nice to take pics and sit together. But with Fernando it was nice
sufficiently. We drank mate with him in his wrecked down jacket
(mottenzerfressen), with just a reduced amount of teeth – a fiest
for dentists – and his boina. He saw him probably the first time in
a film – I took one with my mobile – and he gave some comments
about his uglyness but he started to comb his hair to look good ;o))

his sister (well with no teeth) and the older brother – 79 –
appeared, wow nice clothes, well polished shoes but also not much
teeth either. He didnt like the horse as it was skinny. We had a
short chat and then left home as it was already darkening.

was strange to ride the horses in the dark but Edu said he loves it
and the horses are obviously more relaxed. It seems that they see
much better in the dark then myself. We arrove around 10pm at night,
what a day.

the next day Edu took me again to cajon azul as he had 2 people from
BSAS going up. It was a young couple and the girl had quite some
fear. She was more or less the first time on a horse, and I remember
the first time going up there, not easy, but now I am a Gaucho, not
complete but close. We went up and had a sunny day. Had some Pizza in
the refugio and some – shitty – home made beer, but the owner was
proud so we told him goooood beeeeer ;o). On the way back we dropped
the 2 people at wharton – meeting point – and I wanted also to
unmount the horse. I slipped out of the Estribo (dont know the
english name so spanish has to do it) but said to myself – I am big
so I dont need to go back in – well, should better have done it as I
literally fell off the horse as it is a bit taller then my legs are
long. Luckily I had the horse gear in hand so the horse cannot run
away. But Edu yelled leave the gear – I guess probably it would
have been able to drag me back to the cajon on my bag. So I let it
go, now I have a middlefinger quite thick, and I got according
comments from Edu. Also there were some other gauchos sitting at the
corner and I think they had fun seeing this fat gringo on his back
like a beetle. Edu said no prob everybody has to fell at least once
off the horse (or whores ;o) .. ), so I consider myself now a
baptised Gaucho, Che viste ;).

both went into Warton to kill my pain and to have a homemade beer and
this one was very good.

un dia sencillo. Invité a Caro y Edu a la parilla en el pueblo. Caro
quisera hacer una reservacion pero la chica en el telephon dijo es
lleno pero solo podemos …. ups now I think I am in spanish mode, I
didnt realize I wrote in spanisch. Ok, saturday was an easy going
day. I invited Caro and Edu for a parilla in town. Caro wanted to
make a reservation but the girl on the phone said its not possible as
its already full but we should just come and soon there will be
space. Well, we went and had to wait over an hour. At least I had a
Pisco Sour, or hmm two as Caro just drank a bit of hers. Andrej a
neighbour who is teacher in secondary (I saw him the first time with
his zipper open and the trouser broken inbetween the legs .. swinging
balls) came also. We had a good time there and I commented to the
waiter (obviously a boss or similiar) that she better should tell if
there is no space for the next hour, and also that in a restaurant
they want to be – upper class – a bottle of white wine comes with
a cooler. This resulted in two small bottles of champagne ;o).

went after that to a boliche, but it was empty. The band still worked
on their equipment and as they more or less had been ready to play at
2:30 am we left because we had been tired. Still the boliche was more
or less empty. We carried our beer to the remise and went home
(Andrej with his moto .. hmpf).

the Remise driver told that there is horse racing in Bolson I told
Edu I want to go there. He as well wanted but got in the morning a
call from his former socio who invited him to BBQ, so I went alone.
Its quite interesting and I could not say whether its boring or
interesting interesting. But its strange. Between each race there is
round about 1 hr brake, but this is used to introduce the horses and
also that the guys can bet on the horses. And there is a lot of
betting. There had been 9 races and it was really difficult to catch
a good photo so it needs also a lot of experience. I met there Dario
and Ruben with eyes like tankdrivers. They told that they had been
yesterday in the boliche (disco) next to ours and had not been
sleeping. I guess this was the truth.

the last 3 races Edu was also there coming from his asado. The horses
are really pretty but also really nervous and Edu told they are all
doped. After the races we went shopping and also treating our dry

cool there at the Chacra – country house – because more or less
nearly every night they had visits, which is also agotado –
exhaustive. We had nearly every night asado from Edus fridge, except
one night where I made Spaetzle Patagonia. This was because I had to
improvise as there was more or less nothing to make them so I had to
make them from the tablet, which I swore never to do it again, as it
is a hell of a work. And a lot of vino ;o). Caro makes home made
bread and Hefezopf ;o) rico, but we also bought pan francés in the
Anonima supermarket.

we had been invited to the Warton pub for the birthday of Mariana we
bought in town a good bottle of wine, a flower and the rest for us:
Wine, Beer some food for the next days cabalgata and and and. As like
real gauchos we went by horse 7pm to the birthday place 5 km away.
There only some people had been there but it was nice with home made
pizza (always some spices and salt is missing) beer and wine, and
also the possibility of weed which I rejected as I rather zip on beer
or wine. Around 11pm in total darkness, as it was snowing, we rode
back. This was a cool experience seeing nothing but having the horse
under control. Next morning we wanted to leave early to the oldies,
but returning to the chacra we took a night cup for each leg which
resulted in three ;o).

it snowed quite a bit during the night and in the moring the sky was
in clouds, so we all three didnt leave the bed too early. But as Edu
had to bring the next horse to the oldies and also a Border Collie
Cachorro (Welpe) he needed to go. I checked briefly the sky and for
me it looked like there was a good chance to have no rain or snow, so
I also wanted to go. Finally we left around 11am. Picking up the
cachorro – I wanted immediately to have it – in the nearby chacra
where his dog mated the female. The small one had just 6 weeks and
was really more or less helpless but so cute. Then we moved on the
same way we went last week but with some snow and wet bushes, so I
had quite some clothes but it was even better than the last time,

arrove at the house and this time Fernando and his brother were
there, both in working clothes. Totally differnt this time. We had
some mate, I could take some pics from the guys and the old one was
happy now with his new horse. We left after an hour or so the chacra
and the old gaucho came with us. What a shame he gave me, he mounted
his horse w/o help of a rock or a trunk, I still needed a trunk. Just
before we left his land of 2000 ha we made a rest. He made quickly a
fire, we had the beer, salami and cheese I bought and off he was. We
returned happy to the chacra and as Caro liked the Spaetzle I made
Spaetzle Patagonia again, and this time not as Kaesspaetzle but with
redwine sauce, wow you can call me now Maetre de la Cuisine

my time in Mallin Ahogado was over, but now I am thinking buying me
some land there. I packed my stuff said goodbye and thanks for
makeing me to a Gaucho and was off to the Saccomanos. I also heard in
the radio that there is a Jineteada in Cipolleti on Sunday, so I want
to go there.