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Klaus genießt sein sabbatical year und reist um die Welt ...

10.September – El Calafate

Reisetagebuch Posted on Sun, October 11, 2015 12:28:46

– El Chalten – El Calafate

took the 8 am bus to El Calafate and it was a marvelous day. The view
onto Fitz Roy and Cerro Torres was great and luckily this time the
busdriver did stop briefly to allow us to take some pics. I need to
rent a car tomorrow to get back to the Lago Viedma, and even to
Estancia Helsingfors as the guys told me that from there the views
are incredible. Checked in again to I Keu Ken and talked to Marcelo
about the asado tonite and we agreed to do it around 9 pm. So I left
a bit for the city to see the flamengos and probably take a dring in
the IceBar in the Museo de los Glaciares.

the Laguna for the flamingos it was a walk around 1,5 km and nice,
but the laguna was quite empty so I decided to take a beer on the
terrasse at the nearby restaurant as it was a really nice day. Had
again Guiso Patagonica and a beer. At the neighbour table a guy
started to talk to me (dont remember the name, need to look it up in
FB). He is working for the Navy Forces argentina and told me that
today there two Mirages say their goodbye to the argentinian people
at 5 pm (well I told him if that is 5 pm argenitinian time it will be
sufficient time to do both, and we lauged) as they are to be taken
out of service. So I guess they will fly really low, so I told him I
dont think I can make it to the Glacier Bar and back in time. He said
he will take me to the bar (11km outside of town) and so we went ;o),
he had to return to do Urgently, but the girl (not his
girlfriend) told me she was working for the Museo and got me more
then a half the price entry (80 ARS instead of 200 ARS) and said she
will return to pick me up. Wow how friendly.

went to the icebar (I was already in one, I think it was in Iceland),
and I thought I probably can make 2 cocktails in the 20 minutes which
we stay, but I came along quite good with the barkeeper and I made 5
;o) … again a nice experience and with 8 Euro it was a great deal
so I gave the barkeeper 50 ARS as tip. Outside already Nati the girl
from Cafayate wated and took me to the place where the event will
happen. I think if I had walked I would have been faster. She told me
she didnt drive much so far and so far never outside the town ;o)).
Nati showed me the house of Presidenta Kirchner and then we went down
near the laguna, I left the car around 4:25 and said to myself there
is plenty of time still then I looked up by chance and there was
already the first. Hmpf, 4:30, they must been english. I just not had
time to prepare the cam so I got no shot really in focus ;o((. But
anyway it was an experience.

to check for some options:

a car to go to Helsinfors – but no rental car availability in all
the city. And a Remise would have costed 2000 ARS = 200 Euro. Shit
as it is supposed to be very nice tomorrow

to Torres del Paine and transport de Paine to Natales would have
costed 2200 ARS and this was NOOP (found later it costed in total
450 ARS from El Calafate to Natales and 30.000 Chilean Pesos to the
Parq which was only a third so I decided good

the bookstore bar and had some beers and returned to the hostel
around 8:30 pm and marcelo told me there is no asado as he was
waiting for me. Hmmm we got both somekind of anoyed (probably
therefore I didnt find him anymore in FB). Well around 9pm Alejandro.
Told him there is no car and there is no asado, he took it easy and
said, well then lets go to by wine and salat and stay in the hostal
and by sufficient (3 bottles, chees and salami) for tomorrow to take
it easy at the perito moreno. So we did and had a good time together
in the hostel.

– El Calafate – Perito Moreno Glaciar

and myself took it easy and nearly missed the bus as we both thought
the other guy had the salami and the cheese when we went down to the
busterminal. Alejandro turned running for the hostel and I gook his
small but valuable backpack (wine) to the terminal. We reached the
termina around 5 minutes before the bus left. And we had again luck,
as we didnt book seats and there had been only 2 seats left ;o)). To
the lookout its about 80 km and it took a bit more then 90 mins.

the glacier we went to most of the lookouts and the first lookout
where we took more time was the closest the northface. The weather
was not that good and some could winds came up, but luckily the
lookout was most times w/o much wind. That was the time to open the
first bottle (11am). We enjoyed the sight and the sound of the
glacier. We had been joined by a french young guy who sticked with
us. So after around 90 minutes we went on as some chinese came and
where somehow disturbing. As we went on through non sighting walkway
there was a loud noise and I just saw the last piece falling and it
was huge, shit shit shit I said we waited and the chinese got it. We
all laughed so much.

next viewpoint was more or less central and as we had the second
bottle already open we drank a bit more and enjoyed the sight. The
last viewpoint was on the southface of the glacier and there we
stayed the rest of the time. We had a lot of fun and we where taking
a lots of selfies with everybody passing by. The funniest was later
in the central lookout with the ranger, on all the pics he looked
identical as if he was a statue.

4pm we went back to the bus and reached El Calafate shortly before
6pm and went for 2 beers to the bookstore. In the hostel we found out
that there a lot of people wanted to participate in the asado and
more then we had expected. So we went to buy additional meat, salat
and wine. I didnt feel so well in this loud flock and also I still
felt my stomach full, therefore I didnt participate in the asado, The
guys had a lot of fun according to the noise.

06.September – El Chalten

Reisetagebuch Posted on Sun, October 11, 2015 12:25:18

– El Calafate – El Chalten – Cerro Torre

hmm this is not vacation this is worse then working. Well the bus
left on time and it was just time for sunrise so I had a good view
onto the andes. And wow there was just outside of El Chalten a good
view of Fitz Roy (round about 120km view). I was really exited and
hoping to see this time cerro torre which is really difficult to see.
An hour later we did a short stop to have a coffee and just after we
left the restaurant we had the first view on Fitz Roy and even more
Cerro Torre, wow wow wow. I asked the driver whether we could do a
stop at a mirador (viewpoint) but he told no ;o(. So I had to try to
catch a good pic directly from the bus, and luckily I could w/o much
quality loss, but this a..hole of busdriver could hat really have
stopped for 10 minutes ;o((.

reached El Chalten around 11am but have to go through a briefing by
the Rangers, which was actually very good. He told we have to
register if we want to pass a certain limit. As the bus waited I
could not register directly ;o(. The hotel was around 1 to 1.5 km
away so shot I had to go back by feet which costed around nearly an
hour. Well it is how it is, I checked in to the hotel, and Daniel the
Paraguayan was a really nice guy, he put me in a dorm for me alone
;o). After that I made my way to register and returned back. I wanted
to use the good weather in hope to catch a view on the cerro torre.
Shot this registration costed me an hour and everybody told me that I
need at least 3 hrs to get there (as I had not done a walk for a long
time I expected 4 hours). So I bought some chocolate and made me onto
the way around 12 pm (probably too late to reach laguna torre). It
was a steep walk for the first 2 km which took me nearly 2 hrs (well
did some fotos inbetween) reached Mirador Torre on km 3 of 9 and got
a good view on Torre, I was so happy, so I tried to do some timelaps
which took me around an half an hour so it was already 2:30. The
Ranger said if I am mot there until 4 pm I cannot make it and return
in time. And I had still to go 6 km, shoot, too late (shitty
registration time lost).

tried it and was like speedy gonzales. 6 km, I guess I never make it,
as I remember 6 years ago it was really heavy (distancewise not
hilly), but the walking sticks I had helped really easing up walking,
and …… wow after 1 hrs I was there Laguna Torre 3:30 hrs so I
even have some time to take timeleaps. I used an hour and left laguna
with pics and timelaps and happiness ;o)).

walked again quite fast and after 2:15 hrs I was back but also really
exhausted after 3 km Ranger Checkin and 18 km trecking. I wouldnt
have been able to walk much longer. Exhausted but happy.

the hostel there was also a poco loco argentinan which I liked from
the first moment – Alejandro. Daniel asked us whether we would like
an Asado and we agreed instantly. So we had an Asado well prepared by
Daniel toghether with quite some wine and salad which Alejandro
prepared. Half way through some workers with the young chef from an
estancia came in and had some wine and food there as well. We had a
lot of fun and got pretty drunk. Around 1am we went alltogether to a
bar at the other end of the town, where it had billiard, so with our
drunk head we played pool and also drank more. The guys where really
good fun and at 3 pm I finally went to bed. What a day.

– Corrillo del Salto

much alcohol I woke up around 12 and had not much interest to do
anything as also the weather was no good. Alejandro wanted to walk up
to mirador torre, but finally he suggested to go to Corrillo del
Salto a nice waterfall 4km from the hostel. He took a wine with him,
so I bought also a bottle and we walked easily to the waterfall. My
legs suffered the day before ;o).

was an easy walk and first we were at the base and I took an timeleap
eroneously with 1 second exposure time which finally resulted very
nice. Then we went up to the upper level where we met again the girls
from the base – Laura and Nati, two porteñas. We shared food and
drinks. And as they where im the same hostel we went back together
and we had all again a really good asado also with Eduardo, but
luckily not exhaustive like yesterday.

– Mirador Fitz Roy / Laguna Capri

I woke up and it was cloudy. So I expected a leasure day, but
suddenly it cleared up to an incredible sunny day. So I made my way
to Mirador Fitz Roy around 12 o’clock. The way is up up up for 3 km
but suprisingly I am doing well. Again very nice views, and… wow
what a view. Fitz Roy completely w/o clouds. Took my timeleaps and
also fotos, wow wow wow.

my stay for taking the TimeLeaps there was a couple up there, and
there was it again, a guy w/o a handkerchief. I really could nearly
speak with the porcelan good. The guy had a different clock but was
also in a short time like 8 seconds. This must be really a culteral
thing as his wife did not tell anything.

a couple from north of spain an their honeymoon and we had a nice
chat (Nacho is the name of the guy). They just return tonite to El
Calafate so they couldnt make there way up to mirador torre anymore.

the others Laura, Nati and Alejandro went to camp near laguna torre
the two brasilieros and I had been more or less alone in the hostel.
They wanted to go eating but I wanted to start my tomato diet which I
did. Bought 3 eggs and 6 tomatos and an onion and prepared my salat.
I asked Daniel whether he wanted to join which he accepted happily.
So we had been alone and easy eating, drinking and a bit chatting but
more watching the sown ‘the best laughters’. Went to bed early hoping
tomorrow is another great day to go up agin to Laguna torres.

– El Chalten – tranquilo

the weather is not as expected I am taking it easy. Overcast so I did
not plan to walk. So I bought ham, cheese, eggs and orange juice and
made myself a Lecker Breakfast. And now I am wirting since 11 o`clock
my blog and try to upload pics to the block.

the brasilian guys came back around 5 pm. And there was it again,
also in Brasil there are no handkerchiefs it seems. Well, I will keep
now a bit track about this habit. Laura and Nati jsut came in 5:40
w/o Alejandro as he took another route. Well lets see how the girls
act when the warmness will heat up their noses. Well the girls didnt
have this habit ;o). Alejandor came around 7 pm and had a huge
blister on his feet, grazy guy.

did again a great asado and we all had a very good time. I went to
bed around 1 but Alejandro told me that he went to bed around 5 am or
so…. time to say good by to Hostal Lo de Trivi and Daniel.

03.September – From Puerto Madryn to El Calafate

Reisetagebuch Posted on Sun, October 11, 2015 12:16:44

– P.M. To C.R (Puerto Madryn / Commodore Rivadavia)

bus left around 11 am and took about 6 hours. There was just plain
patagonia, bushes and nothing else, but I loved just to watch, had a
seat at upper deck first row. The problem was that there was a guy
who returned to C.R. For him family who had obviously no handkerchief
and I nearly chocked up, as the guy with a frequency like an atomic
clock nearly every 5 seconds took a deep breath containing some
liquid you dont want to know, bäääähhhh. Luckily he slept for
quite some time.

the terminal i got directions to a ‘nice’ hotel. I checked in into
the new room which costed 50 ARS more, I just wonder how old must be
the old ones. At least they have been clean. The problem with the non
touristic places they do not have hostels, which means accomodation
is more expensive and due to the missing competition the quality

around in the city and wanted to go into a bar, but there was not
really To do, so I was happy not buying the ticket from Rio
Gallegos for sunday, as I now will take the bus from R.G. Already on
saturday 12 am so I have enough time to watch that there is not much
to watch.

– Arround C.R. And down to Rio Gallegos

had a late wakeup, used the breakfast and the wifiy there to take it
easy. As everybody spoke about Playa in Rada Tilla I took the local
bus and went there. Its really an experience using the local bus
system, its like the german one but with a different quality of bus
and driving style of the driver. It took nearly around an hour for 10
km, so I probably could walk ;o). I asked the busdriver to advise me
when the best stop for the beach is reached and I left the bus.

weather was incredible, it was low tide so I walked a bit at the
beach, collected some empty shells and after an km or so I reached a
beach restaurant around 1 pm which had open. Went to the balkony and
ate with prices like an a pharmacy, but it didnt matter as the
weather was great and I just enjoyed sitting there with sun and

the bus back and went with a remise to a mirador (lookout) which was
described in lonely planet, but unfortunately there was a fence so I
could not really take some good shots.

At 7 pm the bus left
.. suite …

– Quick stop Rio Gallegos and on my way to El Calafate

trip during the night with food (was no good) and wine (I helped
myself, so I got a god share). Arrove around 7 am bought a ticket for
12 to El Calafate and took a taxi to the costanera as it looked to be
a great sunrise, hmpf was cold as yesterday but I was a cleverle and
had put on my boots ;o) .. but still quite some meat conserving
temperature. And the sky was incredible, unfortunately it became
cloudy so no sun was seen. Went around 8 to the city center by feet
(8 cuadras) and went into a cafe to warm up and have some coffee.
Thought about taking the earlier bus around 9:30 but decided to take
it easy with a beer ;o).

landscape on the drive to El Calafate was espectacular (sometimes).
We reached around 4 pm El Calafate, took a cab to the hostal ‘I Keu
Ken’ (Tehuelche: found no translation). Marcelo the owner was really
friendy and even invited me to a thirst beer ;o). He helped me to
check the internet for weather in El Chalten. Looked that the
following day the weather should be great. So I went to the bus
terminal and booked the early leave at 8 pm.

again: Had my sandals on and it became really fresh. Anyways I
checked for options to Torres del Paine and need to book it when I
return from El Chalten, as due to low season, the tours are only
leaving if enough people are going. Had a steak and a small bottle of
wine in ‘El Viejo’ which was really great, also the chimichurri
incredible. But now I dont eat the meat with chimichurri because it
would overwrite the taste of the meat, so I eat a piece of meat and
after a spoon of chimichurri ;o) how smart I am ;o)))). Well seems
not as if my had would not be firmly attached to my body I guess I
would forget the head somewhere, as the T-Shirt I bought in Puerto
Madryn, the lonely planet of Humberto, my cap or the wine I bought
two days ago for the bus tour (which I did not need as wine was
served) and which I had put together with my backpack to the luggage
store. The backpack I have, the wine not.

I was w/o wine in the hostel and Marcelo does not have one,
correction, he has one leftover so I used that one ;o)). Eduardo my
room mate from brasil and I had some chat with him. He first will do
the glacier tour and thenafter go to EL Chalten also. Went to bed
after finishing my wine.