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Klaus genießt sein sabbatical year und reist um die Welt ...

17.-25.Okt – The North West with the Chiquitita (Susan)

Reisetagebuch Posted on Fri, November 13, 2015 15:26:24

BSAS and up to Tucumán

late start but I had to be at the BaB at 11:30 so I left the house
and picked a remise, unfortunately the driver didnt know where this
place was, and I didnt remember completely. So we where searching and
I had the fear that we will be very late but we made it in time. The
couple Cecile (a french) and Adrian and I worked for an hour and then
we had to stop as Adrian had to work. Was very effective and very
good results.

return we ate a bit of the meat from yesterday had a beer infront of
his house and around 6pm Susan came to pic me up. We went with the
bus to the terminal in retiro and got on the bus to tucumán 16hrs,
wow. On the bus we had films and food and wine.


arrove 10:30 in Tucumán and went to the information desk to get an
afternoon excursion but there was none due to mothersday ok so we
went to the hostel La Gurda, checked in into a dorm (very very nice
hostel) and walked some blocks to a peña und heared live music for
an hour. Then we went to another one but there everything was already
over … well so back to the city booked sound and light show tickets
for 9 pm in the casa de independencia. Tucumán was where the
independenia was signed. We booked an excursion to Cafayate via Taffi
del Valle for the next day and then went to see the sound and light.
Well it was not like at the pyramides or in luxor, but quite nicely
done. Afterwards we watched a bit the milonga directly aside of the
casa and went to the hostel

Cafayate – Salta

picked us up from the hostel at 7.30 and we drove via Taffi del valle
to Cafayate. At the beginning it was all green like mountain djungle
and then suddenly became very arid as we passed the first peaks in
3000 m. We visited the small town of Taffi which is really nice but
not much to do. We had there great Empanadas. We continued and we
could decide between Quilmes and Museo Pachamama, so we did for
Pachamama. A really nicely done museum. After an hour we continued to
cafayate (btw we have now 35 degrees). Cafayate is a small city but
well known for the wineries here. Vino Blanco, the grape is called
Torrotes. But they have also Malbec and Cabernet. We had a lunch
where we shared the menue cazuela de cordero empanadas and icecream,
rico …. Sergio told us he would us bring directly to salta for 600
more each. We thought shortly and decided yes thats cool.

we went to Salta, we visited a winery where they offered a white and
a redwine. Quite good but I do not remember more. We passed quebrada
de la concha with incredible Rock Formations, then Alemania and
around 7pm we had been in Salta ‘La Linda’. I selected the hostel
from the lonely planet ‘Salta por Siempre’ and checked into a dorm
for 140 ARG. The hostel was nice. I got a messsage from Caro that
they are also in Salta, so we agreed to meet around 10pm at the

was a big hello and we sat together drank and made our plans. We
agreed that i rent a car and that they will join for one day and then
carry on through bolivia. So I checked for rentacar and had one for
700 ARG with 300 km per day. I asked the receptionist and she got me
one for 550, so I took that. It will be handed over at 2pm the next

MaaM, Yungas and Purmamarca

met with Edu and Caro in the town and went to the MaaM – Museo
andina alta Montaña or Similar, where they exhibit one of the
childs found on the vulcan. I knew that already but I liked to see it
again … foreigners 70 ARG locals 50 ARG.

car was handed over at the hotel and Caro and Edu came to the hotel.
We left around 3:30 and headed through the yungas to Purmamarca. The
yungas there are really nice and worthwile traveling slowlier than we
did. Then we went up direction Purmamarca and stopped in a small city
where Caro said there is a Galpón (stable). There the handmade
ponchos where around 850-900 ARG and I thought about to buy one, but
as my backpack is already really full I didnt.

arrove around 8pm at Purmamarca and we checked for hostels or hotels,
but everything was quite expensive. Susan and Edu went of and
negotiated a very good hotel price 500 for each doubleroom. We had
the rooms on the 2nd floor with a terasse and a direct
view to the 7 colors wow. Edu got a key and Caro, as they thought
blancos with blancos and marrones with marrones. So we enjoyed a
bottle of redwine with that view. Later we went to a restaurant with
live music and ate Lama. Hmm very hard so not my next choice anymore.
But the lama was nicely presented especially the one plate caro had

feixte all night long as I had a double with Susan about having sex
with her, well …..

– Purmamarca – Humahuaco – Villazon (Bolivia)

had a relatively late start with a brillant view to the 7 colours,
then breakfast with orange juice freshly made. We went to the market
and were surprised as the ponchos where even cheaper and nicely made
(450 ARG – 45 Euro normal and 30 blue Euro). Also there was a nice
knife for 1200. hmm need to check tomorrow, probably i will buy me a
poncho and a knife.

10:30 we made us on our way to Tilcara, Humamaca did a stop there to
see the San Franzisco leaving his hut … I guess it kitschig but
well a lot of tourists were waiting. After that Caro invited us to
Empanadas which were really great and fruit salat even better. We
went up to the statue and made photos of us aside of the giant
Cardones – Candelaber Cactus. Then carried on to the altiplano on
3400-3700m height and ended finally on the border to bolivia. We
crossed the border by feet and left the car in the parking nearby.

In Villazon there are a lot of Cambios and that was what I
was searching for. So I went to an ATM took out 6000 bolivianos and
changed it into USD so this problem is solved ;o). Edu and Caro
checked for a connection deeper into bolivia and finally we had a
goodbye beer together, actually 2 ;o) for every feet one, the middle
feet didnt count as we didnt have enough time.

started our return at 6 and had been in Purmamarca around 8:30 pm. A
long day and I was quite exhausted. We strolled a bit through the
pueblo and went into another restaurant for food, also with life

Salinas Grandes – San Antonio de los Cobres – Salta

shopping resulted in nothing. The guy with the knife was not there so
I could not negotiate to 1000ARG and I had no sense for carrying the
poncho all around but it was really nice ;o(. Grabbed my laundry and
we left Purmamarca. At the townborder I was stopped by the police and
thought they stopped me because I have honked the horn as a bus didnt
move and blocked the whole street, but no they were hitchhiking ;o)
but I was going to the wrong city.

had to pass a paso on 4000 m and the landscape was just incredible.
The salinas didnt touch me to much. I think that had to do with Uyuni
as Uyuni is much bigger. We than went on a gravel road 120km to San
antonio de los cobres with a landscape which was espectacular.

San Antonio there is the dog burried, not much to do, so we decided
not to stay there but just have a soup and continue direction Salta.
The road from San Antonio back to Salta is one of the highlight
landscapes here, wow wow wow.

were stopped again by the police because there was a teacher waiting
to be taken to Salta so we took her with us. Our plan was to stay the
night outside of salta to be able to go up to Cachi, but as Cachi had
been 160 km we decided different as it would have been a too long
drive as we had to drop the car at 2pm the next day.

returned around 9pm checked into our hostel. Susan wanted a double so
we used a double and not a dorm and went thereafter to the city to
have some empenadas and beer (beer at least for me ;o)).

Oktober Salta

breakfast we went to the quebrada of San Lorenzo. San Lorenzo is a
nice, clean town. There must live a lot of wealthy people according
to the houses. The quebrada is nothing very special but nice to walk
a bit. We returned to the city where I dropped of the car and Susan
wanted to by some sweets and her bus ticket for the next day.

I found a barber so I could finally get my shave. Did a good job for
150 ARG got my head and my face shaved ;o) I was so happy to get my
wool off.

night we went to the Casona de los Molinos to enjoy live music and we
stayed there from 9 to 3am and I was good conditioned ;o).

moring we went to town, she did a bit shopping and I checked also for
the bus to Tucumán and got a busticket on the same bus as Susan (290
ARS). We went to the ITAU museum and as we passed the museum I saw
that they do swan lake tonite, shoot and I have bought my busticket
already and the shop was closed for siesta. Well, I decided to try
then in teh busterminal whether I can change the ticket to sunday. We
had still some time so I went back to the shop where they sold knifes
and I liked two of them one with leather handle for 790 ARG and one
with horn handle and a nice ‘Scheide’ for 2000 ARG. If they would
have given me 20% I would have bought both but they offered me only
10% so I didnt by them.

the bus terminal I could change the ticket with a change fee so I
said good bye to Susan and went back to the hostel. The show was free
at 21 pm and the entrance was on first come first serve basis. So I
decided to be there aroun 7 pm and if there is noone i would have a
beer first. Well, there was one, a queue of around 100m, so I stayed
in line learning spanish vocab.

got a very good seat and it was the first time to see swanlake in
life and it was spectacular. I draw the correct decision loved it.
Had some wine in the hostal and then went to bed.

the day to leave ‘La Linda’. Easy morning, left the hostel at 12 and
at the terminal I saw a whatsapp of Caro telling they are in Salta
again because it was so shitty in bolivia. She sent an SMS on my
argentinian phone but I do not have it online all the time. What a
pity. They where yesterday again in the casona. Menno I could have
been there at least one hour and also stay a day longer ;o((

now I am on my way to Tucumán. Probably we meet in stgo del estero
or in corrientes.

13.-16.Okt – Tandil & BSAS

Reisetagebuch Posted on Fri, November 13, 2015 15:21:45

Tandil – 15.Oktober

wanted to take the first bus to tandil, but it was all fully booked
so I took the next one 14 And arrove 2 hrs later in tandil. I
wanted to go into a hotel suggested by lonely planet but the remise
driver suggested to go into another one so I took that (Roma) which
was good quality but also a bit more expensive (450 ARS). But it was
in a nice area. Dropped my stuff and asked around where I could
change blue dollars, but nobody know. So I decided to wait until
tomorrow and if I do not find someone I need to take money out of the
ATM. So I walked a bit the center and then went into a bar which was
suggested to me because of life music. But today there was none. The
people where really friendly so I stayed two beers and I start to
talk to the owners asking them whether they know somebody to change
money. They said no but they looked for somebody. And luckily there
came one. He was not an official changer so he asked me how I could
proove that the money is real. I couldnt tell him, well at least I
got 200 USD for 1:15 changed (in BSAS 1:16). I finished my beer and
returned to the hotel


morning I brought my laundry to wash and after that I wanted to have
lunch in this famous cheese restaurant, so I went there but it was
closed. So I checked the map and decided first to go to the calvario
and then doing part of the historic circuit. It was a nice walk and
as my lips got dry I took my first beer. Returned to the hostel
around 7, picked up my laundry and had a good talk with the owner. I
asked him for a good Parillada and he pointed me to a tenedor libre
(all you can eat) as he said he probably will make it around 9 pm I
went there. Normally I do not like the ALL YOU CAN EAT as the quality
is good but not very high. I waited until 9:15 but he didnt show up
so I ordered. As I assumed, the meat was good but not as good as it
is in an ‘a la carte’.

it started to rain and I had not my raincoat with me so I waited a
glass of wine more ;o) until it was not as heavy anymore. Walking to
the live music place as they said me it starts at 11pm. I reached the
place 10 minutes before 11 pm and it was closed. So I thought shit
but suddenly the owner came from inside and opened. Hmmm, life music
and no one inside, what kind of event will this be. I decided to
drink a beer and leave afterwards. But suddenly a guy came in with
guitar and 2 guests. He started to play quarter past and suddenly
more and more people came. It was an argentinan caraoke or jam
session, like it was in my early days in los gatos, california. So
the night turned out incredible. Very very good mood or buena onda. I
left at 2:30 am but the others kept on going – all above the 70ies.

Tandil → BSAS

bus to BSAS left around 1pm so I had time a bit to walk again through
the city looking for knifes, there where good shops but I couldnt
decide Also I went to the Museum of bellas artes. Probably I apply
with my pics for an exhibition next year.


arrove around 5pm in Retiro, took a cab to Alejandro. Had to send him
an SMS as his doorbell doesnt work. Suddenly he opened the door with
a welcome package in his hand, Redwine ;o)). With a very warm welcome
we went to his flat, high ceilings and Patina. This would be really
good for pics I thought. We had some more wine and alejandro
prepared some meat and potatos and tomato salad ;o). We went to the
Buquebus (no the other one) terminal as I wanted to go for a day to
Colonia in Uruguay to get dollars. But I could not by tickets today
and I should come tomorrow at 6:30 to by the ticket. No thats not for
me so I skipped this idea and we returned. To Alejandros place.

9pm we left the house and went to a Milonga in Cochabamba street. Wow
quite full and there was a tango class running. We sat in the
background and had a beer and some empanadas (incredible cheap in the
middle of SAN TELMO). We had another beer and then we left to a
typical Pulperia (gaucho restaurant with supermarket). There we had
another redwine and around 1 am we returned to the Milonga. Wow, full
full full and a lot of pretty chics. I need to learn tango. There we
stayed until 3 am and where quite done ;o).


and I was dead. Alejandro left to run and I just stayed a bit longer
in bed. On return we showered and we walked in direction La Boca
where we wanted to have lunch. We went to Boca a Boca as there a
friend of Alejandro – Rita works and lives nearby. We got a menu
for 80 pesos with very good quality and rita also participated. The
place is at night a Tango bar and I explained Rita I am desperately
looking for a tango couple to take pictures of. So she told me she
will ask around as she knows that a lot of tango dancers search for
photographers which take little or no money.

left for La Boca to have a short walk and a beer. We said good bye to
rita and returned home to buy meat and chinchilines to have on the
terasse of alejandro BBQ or Asado with some friends. But before we
went to the pulperia drank some wine and played table soccer and some
kind of old game with a frog where you need to through a chip into
the frogs mouth. We were already pretty tipsy but hat a lot of fun.
Bought meat and veggies and …. Wine what else ;o)). We prepared
everything and used his electrical stove. His friends came around 11
pm and we started to eat. The chinchulines were really great and this
was the first time he made them. We drank, ate, chatted and smoked
some weed.Really a cool evening. I received a sms from Rita that
there is a couple available at 11:30 until 12:30 to make the
shooting, woooowwwww.

08.-12.Okt. Bariloche & Jineteadas in Cipoletti & Azul

Reisetagebuch Posted on Fri, November 13, 2015 15:19:14

– 10.October

El Bolson with a busride with landscape incredible to Bariloche. Took
a Taxi to Melipal for 140 ARS and met Tania again after 3 years. What
a surprise, she is mother of a cute 17 months old Paloma, running
around but not talking yet but so cute. Didnt leave the house and
went early to bed.

day really a late start as the house is really quiet and i could have
stayed all day long in bed, but I wanted to see So I went by
bus to the skiing area cerro catedral. Unfortunately the highest
point was shut as the cable carril was closed, so I just went up to
diente del caballo. Not espectacular but nice and I could take some

Tania and Leo to the parilla where I was already 6 years ago ‘Boliche
del Alberto’ and we had really great food. Everything was good,
salad, fries, meat .. wow vale la pena. And the price was higher but

wakeup and hanging around in bed. Leo brought me to the bus terminal
to drop off the baggage and then to playa linda. There I stayed quite
some time and went then to the city to check the bars Leo had
mentioned. Konna was really good and shity that the baggage drop
closes at 10 pm so I had to leave earlier as my bus leaves at 11:15
;o(( but at least I could catchup with my BLOG.

waiting for the bus 21 o’clock

11.Oktober Cipoletti

the bus ride was not bad but arriving in cipoletti around 5:30 am was
a bit hard. At least I could charge my batteries in the cafeteria.
Nobody knew about a Jineteada in cipoletti, well, I guess I am a real
gaucho now ;o). at around 7 the cafeteria opened and I got my coffee
and medialuna. I couldn get rid of my backpack as there was no
luggage store in the terminal, what a shit! Suddenly somebody ticked
me from behind, it was Andrés who came back from Tucuman with his
students. Strange, 600km away from El Bolson and we met in a
busterminal with a great hello. I bought my ticket from cipoletti to
Azul because there is tomorrow a Jineteada.

knew that there is at 4 corners a Jineteada. So I took a cab to the
domo (the stadion) and yes there was one. The cab driver told me its
easy to pickup a taxi back to town. Nobody wanted to keep an eye on
my stuff as I had to carry all my belongings. Finally I found in the
beer stand someone who took it and now I enjoyed my time here. It was
a pretty big event with three palenkes (poles) where they tie the
horses prior to mount them. Quite some wild one. The place was much
bigger then the one in el bolson. It was the qualification for Jesus
Maria in january near cordoba, which is the national championship. I
got no meat as there was a long queue so I enjoyed a beer more
instead ;o). around 5:30 the jineteada was over and they played
chamame and other music to dance. I went to the road to pick up
easily a taxi, but there was none. So I tried hitch hiking. Well,
nobody, really nobody stopped for more then 90 minutes, and I was
afraid that I loose my bus to Azul. More or less in the last minute
one stopped and also brougth me directly to the terminal, just in
time. And the bus left.


bus did not stop at the terminal but directly on the highway to BSAS
so I took a remis to the terminal and there direct opposite side was
a hostal. Normally the quality is not so good – remember the Jodel
Class in corrientes – but for the price this was excellent – 220
ARG and breakfast inclusive. I took a breakfast with 2 croissants
(medialunas) and it costed 30 ARG so quite a deal. Then I took a cab
to the Domo and I got my De Ja Vú as the cabdriver told me its easy
to grab a taxi … well lets see.

place was a bit smaller but it liked it more and also I was allowed
to go to the grounds so I had a really good view on the event. Here
they also did a horserace around the barrels. Lunch break and I got
my second De Ja Vú: For the Asado there was no cutlery (like a year
ago in Villa Lia) so I did what I needed to do and bought me a knife.
This time a more cheaper one, went back and the guy asked me whether
I want 1kg of chorizo I said no its to much but I was ashamed to ask
for less then 500 g as a real gaucho its for breakfast this amount.
It came and I guess it was more than 500g rather 700g. So I started
to eat but I just could eat 1/3 so I gave it to an elderly couple
nearby and they happily accepted it. As it was warm I had not much
with me only my Müllabfuhr top, but as soon as the sun was gone it
became chilly. Well, the jineteada was over and they had now chamame
life music but as it was cold I just stayed 3 songs.

at the road: Easy pickup of a taxi .. hehehe …. there was none. So
I asked the policemen whether they could help. They could, one of
them called a remise which took about 15 minutes to arrive. In the
meantime the police left, the pickup of them had no working rear
lights and this applied also to one of the two motorcycles, so easy
going here or? ;o))

returned to the to the hotel dropped my stuff and took a remise to
the city center. It must be really rich in the 20ies as a lot of
belle epoque houses had been on the way but not good maintained. Made
a short sight seeing and then went for a wine (bottle ;o)..) to a
RestoBar. There I enjoyed the wine and returned then to the hotel.

27.September – 08.Oktober (Santiago / Bariloche / El Bolson)

Reisetagebuch Posted on Mon, November 02, 2015 11:33:13


taxi came a bit early but I was ready. In the airport everything was
going smooth and soon I was on board (tiny chileans dont need much
space but I do ;o((( . ). Luckily it was just a short flight but
unluckily I did not see the vulcanos. I took the shuttle to the
busterminal to realize that the next bus will go to bariloche at 3pm
now it was 10:00 ;o(. At least I saw a traditional dance in the
terminal. Thought to myself well lets got to the center for some
coffee but I walked in vane as nothing had open on a sunday moring.
So I decided to go to the fishermen wharf where I was already 4 years

weather but at least most of the things in the Mercado Angelmo was
inside. Had a good view on sealions and also the folclore group was
dancing here, much nicer then in the busterminal amongst the fish
;o)… Had some Congrio soup (incredible, I’ll miss chile for the
seafood), and as an appetizer I got Ceviche from smoked salmon, this
nearly beat the palmheart ceviche, wow wow wow.

I am not able to make it to El Bolson and hoped to see the blood moon
in Bariloche, but first we have to go there. At the frontier there
was snow on the road (wintertime in spring, like in germany). Finally
we arrove around 9:30 pm at the terminal bariloche. Unluckily my
mobile dropped and I lost the info about the hostels. I went with the
bus as infront of the taxistand there where waiting 6 people and for
more than 15 minutes no taxi came. I went into the bus and there was
the argentinian problem again, no cash ;o( but luckily somebody paid
with his card the 6 pesos and I paid him in cash. The bus dropped me
off in the center and now where to go. Well, I tried a hotel but it
was full with spring breakers or Similar. The receptionist gave
me the key to the network but I couldnt get in (probably all ports
are occupied by the youngsters). So I asked him for Hostels and he
geve me some directions. But I found another hotel – Kings – and
he had a room for 500 ARS so I took that. In the room it was awfully
hot so I asked the guy how to lower – Open the window was the
response. Well, global heating …

fullmoon eclipse due to rain ;o(( .. Juan Carlso in Viña instead saw
it ;o(( should have stayed longer. I went to the bar area but due to
sunday night even the irish pub had closed. Well, I found a bar with
a bit live music stayed there for two cups of wine (i had not enough
ARS ;o( ..) and went to the hotel.

– 08.October

moring I went to town to change money and got 1 USD to 15.3 ARS
change. Picked the bus to El Bolson and then a Remise to Mallin
Ahogado CIDEP where Caro and Edu live. Received a very warm welcome.
As I am writing this with delay I do not refer for this with dates
and also the most important things.

day – I guess it was wednesday ;o) – we, Caro, Edu and I, went
with the horses to handover a horse to some old landowners in the
next valley. We left late as the weather didnt seem to be impressive
in the morning but… it was awesome in the afternoon. Caro decided
herself very late so she came with us w/o food. Her horse is called
‘poca plata’ as Edu bought it for little money, a very good horse.
The way was incredible through nearly untouched land and we had to
pay attention that no branch hits us or the horse doesnt pass a tree
to close – because of our knees. It was a 3 hrs ride and was
espectacular. Actually only 2hrs but I needed 1hr to take my pics.
Down there only fernando was there as one (all the hermanos –
brothers and sisters live there) of the hermanos was in the hospital,
so Edu was a bit disappointed as he told us with the both oldies its
nice to take pics and sit together. But with Fernando it was nice
sufficiently. We drank mate with him in his wrecked down jacket
(mottenzerfressen), with just a reduced amount of teeth – a fiest
for dentists – and his boina. He saw him probably the first time in
a film – I took one with my mobile – and he gave some comments
about his uglyness but he started to comb his hair to look good ;o))

his sister (well with no teeth) and the older brother – 79 –
appeared, wow nice clothes, well polished shoes but also not much
teeth either. He didnt like the horse as it was skinny. We had a
short chat and then left home as it was already darkening.

was strange to ride the horses in the dark but Edu said he loves it
and the horses are obviously more relaxed. It seems that they see
much better in the dark then myself. We arrove around 10pm at night,
what a day.

the next day Edu took me again to cajon azul as he had 2 people from
BSAS going up. It was a young couple and the girl had quite some
fear. She was more or less the first time on a horse, and I remember
the first time going up there, not easy, but now I am a Gaucho, not
complete but close. We went up and had a sunny day. Had some Pizza in
the refugio and some – shitty – home made beer, but the owner was
proud so we told him goooood beeeeer ;o). On the way back we dropped
the 2 people at wharton – meeting point – and I wanted also to
unmount the horse. I slipped out of the Estribo (dont know the
english name so spanish has to do it) but said to myself – I am big
so I dont need to go back in – well, should better have done it as I
literally fell off the horse as it is a bit taller then my legs are
long. Luckily I had the horse gear in hand so the horse cannot run
away. But Edu yelled leave the gear – I guess probably it would
have been able to drag me back to the cajon on my bag. So I let it
go, now I have a middlefinger quite thick, and I got according
comments from Edu. Also there were some other gauchos sitting at the
corner and I think they had fun seeing this fat gringo on his back
like a beetle. Edu said no prob everybody has to fell at least once
off the horse (or whores ;o) .. ), so I consider myself now a
baptised Gaucho, Che viste ;).

both went into Warton to kill my pain and to have a homemade beer and
this one was very good.

un dia sencillo. Invité a Caro y Edu a la parilla en el pueblo. Caro
quisera hacer una reservacion pero la chica en el telephon dijo es
lleno pero solo podemos …. ups now I think I am in spanish mode, I
didnt realize I wrote in spanisch. Ok, saturday was an easy going
day. I invited Caro and Edu for a parilla in town. Caro wanted to
make a reservation but the girl on the phone said its not possible as
its already full but we should just come and soon there will be
space. Well, we went and had to wait over an hour. At least I had a
Pisco Sour, or hmm two as Caro just drank a bit of hers. Andrej a
neighbour who is teacher in secondary (I saw him the first time with
his zipper open and the trouser broken inbetween the legs .. swinging
balls) came also. We had a good time there and I commented to the
waiter (obviously a boss or similiar) that she better should tell if
there is no space for the next hour, and also that in a restaurant
they want to be – upper class – a bottle of white wine comes with
a cooler. This resulted in two small bottles of champagne ;o).

went after that to a boliche, but it was empty. The band still worked
on their equipment and as they more or less had been ready to play at
2:30 am we left because we had been tired. Still the boliche was more
or less empty. We carried our beer to the remise and went home
(Andrej with his moto .. hmpf).

the Remise driver told that there is horse racing in Bolson I told
Edu I want to go there. He as well wanted but got in the morning a
call from his former socio who invited him to BBQ, so I went alone.
Its quite interesting and I could not say whether its boring or
interesting interesting. But its strange. Between each race there is
round about 1 hr brake, but this is used to introduce the horses and
also that the guys can bet on the horses. And there is a lot of
betting. There had been 9 races and it was really difficult to catch
a good photo so it needs also a lot of experience. I met there Dario
and Ruben with eyes like tankdrivers. They told that they had been
yesterday in the boliche (disco) next to ours and had not been
sleeping. I guess this was the truth.

the last 3 races Edu was also there coming from his asado. The horses
are really pretty but also really nervous and Edu told they are all
doped. After the races we went shopping and also treating our dry

cool there at the Chacra – country house – because more or less
nearly every night they had visits, which is also agotado –
exhaustive. We had nearly every night asado from Edus fridge, except
one night where I made Spaetzle Patagonia. This was because I had to
improvise as there was more or less nothing to make them so I had to
make them from the tablet, which I swore never to do it again, as it
is a hell of a work. And a lot of vino ;o). Caro makes home made
bread and Hefezopf ;o) rico, but we also bought pan francés in the
Anonima supermarket.

we had been invited to the Warton pub for the birthday of Mariana we
bought in town a good bottle of wine, a flower and the rest for us:
Wine, Beer some food for the next days cabalgata and and and. As like
real gauchos we went by horse 7pm to the birthday place 5 km away.
There only some people had been there but it was nice with home made
pizza (always some spices and salt is missing) beer and wine, and
also the possibility of weed which I rejected as I rather zip on beer
or wine. Around 11pm in total darkness, as it was snowing, we rode
back. This was a cool experience seeing nothing but having the horse
under control. Next morning we wanted to leave early to the oldies,
but returning to the chacra we took a night cup for each leg which
resulted in three ;o).

it snowed quite a bit during the night and in the moring the sky was
in clouds, so we all three didnt leave the bed too early. But as Edu
had to bring the next horse to the oldies and also a Border Collie
Cachorro (Welpe) he needed to go. I checked briefly the sky and for
me it looked like there was a good chance to have no rain or snow, so
I also wanted to go. Finally we left around 11am. Picking up the
cachorro – I wanted immediately to have it – in the nearby chacra
where his dog mated the female. The small one had just 6 weeks and
was really more or less helpless but so cute. Then we moved on the
same way we went last week but with some snow and wet bushes, so I
had quite some clothes but it was even better than the last time,

arrove at the house and this time Fernando and his brother were
there, both in working clothes. Totally differnt this time. We had
some mate, I could take some pics from the guys and the old one was
happy now with his new horse. We left after an hour or so the chacra
and the old gaucho came with us. What a shame he gave me, he mounted
his horse w/o help of a rock or a trunk, I still needed a trunk. Just
before we left his land of 2000 ha we made a rest. He made quickly a
fire, we had the beer, salami and cheese I bought and off he was. We
returned happy to the chacra and as Caro liked the Spaetzle I made
Spaetzle Patagonia again, and this time not as Kaesspaetzle but with
redwine sauce, wow you can call me now Maetre de la Cuisine

my time in Mallin Ahogado was over, but now I am thinking buying me
some land there. I packed my stuff said goodbye and thanks for
makeing me to a Gaucho and was off to the Saccomanos. I also heard in
the radio that there is a Jineteada in Cipolleti on Sunday, so I want
to go there.

21.-26. September – Vina del Mar

Reisetagebuch Posted on Mon, October 26, 2015 13:09:07

21.September – Leaving Carocas

I guessed I had my problems leaving the Carocas so I was really late
in going to the bus on monday. Rosa went with me to the ticket
counter and bought the ticket from Rancagua to STGO and from STGO to
Viña del Mar. She gave a half an hour buffer so it seemed to be

the good bye felt hard, Gustavo and Nelson came with us – to ensure
that I am really leaving? ;o) I guess no! Kisses and handshakes and I
was off with the bus.

I guess there was lot of traffic and I needed to be there at 20:11 at
the connecting bus. We just arrove at 20:08 and I had to check where
the bus left as the track anounced on my ticket was empty. The bus
was already about to leave as I found it and luckily he stopped and I
could get on.

hours later I was in Viña. I tried to reach Juan – Johannes –
but it was really tricky to find out what I had to dial, and the shop
assistants did not really know, but finally I managed it. Juan
already was in the busstation waiting for me. He picked me up with a
warm welcome and we went to home of the Torres. Irma was already
waiting there and luckily they did not have to eat as I had still
enough food in my stomach from the Carocas. But Irma made as Dip
Guacamole and some chips, and a lot of beer ;o)). We went to bed late
around 2 am.

– Tuesday

and I had a very late start around 12. He made some breakfast and at
1 pm we went to Viña because I liked ot make my Tax stuff and the
Shares stuff already long ago pending. Luckily I could do everything
so a heavy load is off my shoulders. Also we went to buy an external
drive for my as my other one is still in El Calafate ;o(. 1 TB drive
was quite cheap here in Chile as there are not the taxes of
Argentina. In Argentina its now really expensive to buy things.

picked up Irma from her work and went to the supermarket to get some
bread, veggies and wine. Then we returned to the home and we started
to do a BBQ also Caro came to share. Strange the girls here are doing
the BBQ and not the men. Juan put a lot of meat on the BBQ and we
drank some beer and some (a lot of very good) red wine. After the BBQ
Irma had some Guinda (Sauerkirsch Likör) which was really good (2
years aged). It looked that Johannes had a real good buzz. We went
all to bed around 3 am .. hmfp .. party .. Well Juan still is on sick
leave because of his shoulder


Juan really had a hangover but as we had some time he could get over
it. Today I will visit Belén de la Aldea SOS together with Caro. As
Isabel (the SOS Mother) wrote me that it would be nice for her to
have a smart fone (cheap one) I checked it in the shops there. Well,
around 100 Euro, what the hack, I bought one. As we had been delayed
I wrote Isabel that we are coming 1 hour later.

Arriving in the
Aldea it was a big hello aaaannnnddd, they had been all waiting with
their lunch. So we shared lunch with all the kids and Isabel. There
we stayed around 4 hours and had a really good time with all of them.

picked us up with Irma and we dropped of Caro and returned to home.
This night not too long


went to Valparaiso to meet with Juans son for dinner. Prior we went
to laguna verde and to the prison ;o) .. We had a dinner in a
restaurant which is shared with a photography store doing also this
antique shots. And I wanted one but it seems that one needs
reservation. We had a really nice dinner and after that we went up
with a escalator to have a nice view over the bay.

went back to viña and tried to find the ‘Café con Piernas’
indicated by Caro. We found it but it seems to be a night club and
therefore was still closed ;o(( .. at least I saw before a
presentation of Cueca, a traditional Chilenean dance.

6 we went to pickup Irma, and went to Paulina and her husbands flat
in a 25 floor building with great views, but I think during an
earthquake I wouldnt like it too much. Well, PauTi said it was not
too bad (can I believe that?). We went up to the top floor an there
they have swimming pool and BBQ, so I guess I need to return in
summer ;o)). Around 8 we picked up Caro as I invited all of them for
supper. We had an impressive drive with lookouts over the bay along
the costanera until near KonKon. Unfortunately I forgot the name of
the restaurant, but we had really good seafood, hmmm riccccooooo.


to say goodbye. Finally ;o( .. Last day, so we took it easy went
again to Viña a bit and afterwards we are carretear in Quilpue
because Juan doesnt need to drive. We – Caro, Irma, Johannes and
myself – took a Remise and went to the ‘city center’ of Quilpue.
There we went to the Club Sibarita Quilpue to have some drinks and
something small to eat. There we met up with Paula, a colleague of
Irma. Had some drinks and very good time. As it seemed that the
visitors could place their thoughts in writing on the wall I finally
also did my writing:

estaba aqui
no habla español
las mujeres estan un poco loco
→ Irma,
Caro y Paula
voy ahora al Café de las Piernas (me equivoqué – Cafe con


had a lot of fun but finally the end neared. Paula drove us home and
with a big hug I said good bye to Caro and Paula.


and Johannes took me to the bus. At three I was in STGO .. taking a
taxi to the hostel, dropped my stuff and went to the Mercado Central
to have some seafood. There I had jardin de mariscos which was good
and a lot so I could not eat all (19.000 Pesos). Later I went to
search for some Cafe con Piernas but I did not find one, but I found
the theatre. And there there was some show which I bought a ticket
for (4000). Well, it was more or less like HP Kerkelings HUUUURZZZZ
.. I did not really understand it. Well, went to the hostal early for
getting some sleep as the taxi comes early

15.-20..September Puerto Natales – Puerto Montt – Rancagua

Reisetagebuch Posted on Mon, October 26, 2015 13:04:56

Puerto Natales – Puerto Montt

(a spanish doctor from Barcelona) and Pedro (the lawyer from
alicante) from the excursion where also on board. We had some nice
chats and stuck most of the time together. As the weather was no good
I stayed most of the time inside working with my Video to Brain
photoshop movies. Food was good, I helped Julio with his spanish and
took it easy (Humberto where are you, need your connection to San
Pablo for good weather).

now forward to meet Rosa for the Dia de la Patria buuuut, in the TV
there appeared on 17.September that 120km off Vina del Mar to the
north there was around 19:30 an earth quake with 8.4 on the Richter.
As we had no signal on board I do not have any idea neithere whether
Rosa and her family is well, nor whether Arturo and his family who is
located closer to the epicenter are well.

long on 17the in the tv they talked about the earthquake … so far 9


in Puerto Montt and it all seems ok with flights and in Rancagua. So
I tried to find in the morning an open Pub but due to the Dia de la
Patria nothing was open, so I decided to directly go to the airport,
hoping to find there a WIFI.

the airport only the WIFI in the VIP lounge was usable so I payed
around 16 Euros to get in and had there some wine and could work with
the Internet. Did chat with Rosa and there everything is fine. Took
my flight to Stgo. On time and took the connection to the Turbus
Terminal in Stgo and from there then the bus to Rancagua.

Rancagua Rosa picked me up and we went to their family. There I got
her room to stay and everybody joined for a dinner at the home of the
parents. Gustavo, Nancy, Esteban, Nelson, Rosa, Maria (the mother)
and briefly Jose (the father). Also uncle, aunt and a nevew wiht his
swedish girlfriend. We had a alot of fun and sat there until midnight
or so.

had an easy start breakfast with fruit, juice, ham and cheese. After
that Nelson and Rosa showed me around the city center with a lot of
history. Wow its already some days ago so I do not remember
everything. We went to the Media Luna (the arena where the rodeos
are) and I had my first Terremoto (white wine – sweet – with
Pinapple ice – even sweeter). I thought it is more folclore but it
was more or less like octoberfest in Munich

went up afterwards to the Copper Family and there some people
celebrated the dia de la patria on her car. Strange but somehow nice.

cenar again a lot of food .. hmpf … but ricoooo .. Maria is really
cooking well creo gain some kilos here. Again in the family circle.


day again a late start and we went up to a famous hotel near the
mines, together with a niece of Rosa (Ignacia, daughter of Esteban).
Had here easy time and behaved like kids ;o). Had a coffee or my
first Pisco Sour and returned to home, where Gustavo was a bit
disappointed as he did the BBQ and we had been late ;o((. Again food
food food .. (I guess I could fall in love with Rosa, but we are both
Alphas and I guess it would end in murder– :o((..)


again ;o) … we went to see Rosas Bauplatz and later we had a coffee
and tea in the mountains with some nice views. Like it very much, and
I guess I have a hard time to leave. At the evening we sat together
with the whole family and as we had been much earlier then the other
days the father joined as well and I could ask him about the history
of mining and other things. He knows a lot of things, but suddenly he
disappeared again. I guess he has his routine and doesnt like people
around so much at night.

12.September – El Calafate – Puerto Natales

Reisetagebuch Posted on Mon, October 26, 2015 13:01:32

– El Calafate – Puerto Natales

a remise for 25 ARS to the busterminal and left El Calafate w/o
eating Calafate, so most likely I dont come back again. In the bus
there was Katherine and Florian two germans I had met in the
excursion to Perito Moreno yesteray. Most of the time (6 hrs) I dozed
as the whether changed to bad. We came to the chilenean border and
had to get the luggage x-rayed (as in every chilenean frontier).
Around 3 pm we where in the new busterminal. I walked the 10 quartes
to the hostel but the hostel was still closed for the season, so I
asked the guy where to go. He sent me to the YaganHouse, they only
had a bunk bed left so I asked to use WiFi to check my BLOG for the
hostel where I was 4 years ago – Lili Patagonia. I found that its
at the next block so I just went there, but Lili was full for the day
but next day a single was available which I took as Yagan House was
full for the next day. So I slept in Yagan House which was relatively
expensive 12.000 for bunk but the bed was really good. I didnt leave
as I already ate around 4pm in the artsmarket cafe, a real, real,
real good Caldillo Marisco (Seefood soup). Went to bed early.

– Torres del Paine

reception girl told me yesterday that I have to be ready between 7:30
– 8:00 am. But the breakfeast girl told no thats the summer
schedule. Well so I had at least 30 Minutes more time. Breakfast was
good. But on 8:30 am still nobody showed up and the girl said the
minibus just had passed. She helped me and checked with the tour and
she told me they are still on their way??? So they picked my up
around 8:45. On the way we had a good sight of Condors just near the
street. It took a bit more then 2hrs to the park (120km) and just as
we arrove at the lookout the torres started to cover up so no sight,
and thereafter heavy winds with boes of 120 km. I met the germans on
the tour and we had some chat. We had exactly the same way as I had 6
years ago with Rosa and Arturo but not the same weather. We mad a
lunchbreak at the same place where I got the incredible pics of a
fox, but as it was raining I went to the restaurant for a soup and a
vino. There one guy – Pedro – of our group joined and we finished
a bottle together. After that I did not leave the bus more as it was
raining and I saw glacier grey already and also the Milodon cave.

agreed with the germans to meet to go together for supper. And as we
had a suggestion from the tourguide Jonathan which was Las Picas Del
Carlito we went there. Florian wanted cordero del palo which still
was on the BBQ but the waiter said no that is already reserverd ;o(,
so he took a parrilla, Katharine took De porber (with fried
egg) and I had again a fishshoup. Prior we had Kingcrab, for a
starter, which actually was a huge plate. Talking to the waiter I
said him I like very much Curanto and he said, they had yesterday,
shit. But, he said in the restaurant Raices del Chiloe they have. So
I will go tomorrow. We wanted to change for a beer but all the places
at the plaza de las armas have been closed, so we went to sleep.

– Waiting for the Navimag Ferry

going, stood up at 10, had my breakfast until 11:30 and then went for
the NAVIMAG checkin. Left my bag there as I had to be back at 8:30 pm
and went back for the center searching for a hairdresser as I wanted
to get a beardcut prior to meet Rosa and her Family – Plans are to
be changed, didnt plan to meet them for the Dia de la Patria at 18.
September, but a lot of people told that there it will be nice as it
is the heart of the chilean folclore and therefore I also searched
now for a travelagency, as the flights I found in the INET had been
quite expensive. I found an agency and got a flight for 180 Euros
roundtrip from Puerto Montt, not knowing whether I take the return as
I only bought it as it was 70 euros cheaper then the oneway so I have
around 9 days in stgo.

I got my beard cut and luckily again my head is firmly attached to
the body otherwise I would loose it as I forgot my glasses in the
hairdressers and at 4:30 it was closed, so I went to the nearby
artsmarket to have a bear and a soup, that was ultimatively too much
for my dinner but well. Around 6pm I picked up my glasses and went to
Raises del Chiloe, which still was closed but the guy let me in and I
got my Curanto, wow again mussles with a size of my hand, only it was
not as good as in Mechuque, Chiloe.

8:45 pm we had our emparquement, as we had been only about 20 people
we got an upgrade, where Pedro had now the best deal as he bought his
ticket for 3-way cabin for 300 dollar w/o window and I bought a 2-way
cabin for 350 but we ended both in a 2-way with window occupied by
one. Really great deal. I carried half a bottle of wine and 3 full
bottles of wine into the ship not to have to pay the expensive drinks
at board. On the third floor I suddenly felt some wetness at my leg
annnnd… the cork wasnt fixed correctly so my half bottle was
already empty, hope I dont get problems on board, but nobody said

got quite well along with Julio Assmann who spoke quite good german.
And he told us that after a fire caused by drunken youngsters which
burned their cabin 2 years ago they dont allow alcohol on board and
there is no bar at all. So I asked him whethere we still go offboard
and he told yes until tomorrow 9 am and he said that some of them go
to a bar in P.N. So I joined them. There I got more or less the half
of the team to know: Michael, Osvaldo and some others. We returned
around 2 am.

10.September – El Calafate

Reisetagebuch Posted on Sun, October 11, 2015 12:28:46

– El Chalten – El Calafate

took the 8 am bus to El Calafate and it was a marvelous day. The view
onto Fitz Roy and Cerro Torres was great and luckily this time the
busdriver did stop briefly to allow us to take some pics. I need to
rent a car tomorrow to get back to the Lago Viedma, and even to
Estancia Helsingfors as the guys told me that from there the views
are incredible. Checked in again to I Keu Ken and talked to Marcelo
about the asado tonite and we agreed to do it around 9 pm. So I left
a bit for the city to see the flamengos and probably take a dring in
the IceBar in the Museo de los Glaciares.

the Laguna for the flamingos it was a walk around 1,5 km and nice,
but the laguna was quite empty so I decided to take a beer on the
terrasse at the nearby restaurant as it was a really nice day. Had
again Guiso Patagonica and a beer. At the neighbour table a guy
started to talk to me (dont remember the name, need to look it up in
FB). He is working for the Navy Forces argentina and told me that
today there two Mirages say their goodbye to the argentinian people
at 5 pm (well I told him if that is 5 pm argenitinian time it will be
sufficient time to do both, and we lauged) as they are to be taken
out of service. So I guess they will fly really low, so I told him I
dont think I can make it to the Glacier Bar and back in time. He said
he will take me to the bar (11km outside of town) and so we went ;o),
he had to return to do Urgently, but the girl (not his
girlfriend) told me she was working for the Museo and got me more
then a half the price entry (80 ARS instead of 200 ARS) and said she
will return to pick me up. Wow how friendly.

went to the icebar (I was already in one, I think it was in Iceland),
and I thought I probably can make 2 cocktails in the 20 minutes which
we stay, but I came along quite good with the barkeeper and I made 5
;o) … again a nice experience and with 8 Euro it was a great deal
so I gave the barkeeper 50 ARS as tip. Outside already Nati the girl
from Cafayate wated and took me to the place where the event will
happen. I think if I had walked I would have been faster. She told me
she didnt drive much so far and so far never outside the town ;o)).
Nati showed me the house of Presidenta Kirchner and then we went down
near the laguna, I left the car around 4:25 and said to myself there
is plenty of time still then I looked up by chance and there was
already the first. Hmpf, 4:30, they must been english. I just not had
time to prepare the cam so I got no shot really in focus ;o((. But
anyway it was an experience.

to check for some options:

a car to go to Helsinfors – but no rental car availability in all
the city. And a Remise would have costed 2000 ARS = 200 Euro. Shit
as it is supposed to be very nice tomorrow

to Torres del Paine and transport de Paine to Natales would have
costed 2200 ARS and this was NOOP (found later it costed in total
450 ARS from El Calafate to Natales and 30.000 Chilean Pesos to the
Parq which was only a third so I decided good

the bookstore bar and had some beers and returned to the hostel
around 8:30 pm and marcelo told me there is no asado as he was
waiting for me. Hmmm we got both somekind of anoyed (probably
therefore I didnt find him anymore in FB). Well around 9pm Alejandro.
Told him there is no car and there is no asado, he took it easy and
said, well then lets go to by wine and salat and stay in the hostal
and by sufficient (3 bottles, chees and salami) for tomorrow to take
it easy at the perito moreno. So we did and had a good time together
in the hostel.

– El Calafate – Perito Moreno Glaciar

and myself took it easy and nearly missed the bus as we both thought
the other guy had the salami and the cheese when we went down to the
busterminal. Alejandro turned running for the hostel and I gook his
small but valuable backpack (wine) to the terminal. We reached the
termina around 5 minutes before the bus left. And we had again luck,
as we didnt book seats and there had been only 2 seats left ;o)). To
the lookout its about 80 km and it took a bit more then 90 mins.

the glacier we went to most of the lookouts and the first lookout
where we took more time was the closest the northface. The weather
was not that good and some could winds came up, but luckily the
lookout was most times w/o much wind. That was the time to open the
first bottle (11am). We enjoyed the sight and the sound of the
glacier. We had been joined by a french young guy who sticked with
us. So after around 90 minutes we went on as some chinese came and
where somehow disturbing. As we went on through non sighting walkway
there was a loud noise and I just saw the last piece falling and it
was huge, shit shit shit I said we waited and the chinese got it. We
all laughed so much.

next viewpoint was more or less central and as we had the second
bottle already open we drank a bit more and enjoyed the sight. The
last viewpoint was on the southface of the glacier and there we
stayed the rest of the time. We had a lot of fun and we where taking
a lots of selfies with everybody passing by. The funniest was later
in the central lookout with the ranger, on all the pics he looked
identical as if he was a statue.

4pm we went back to the bus and reached El Calafate shortly before
6pm and went for 2 beers to the bookstore. In the hostel we found out
that there a lot of people wanted to participate in the asado and
more then we had expected. So we went to buy additional meat, salat
and wine. I didnt feel so well in this loud flock and also I still
felt my stomach full, therefore I didnt participate in the asado, The
guys had a lot of fun according to the noise.

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